The grate

Everything meets fire before it meets a plate

Lamb, root vegetables, bread and one fish when the river obliges. Written up at four, cooked until ten, no printed menu anywhere in the building.

At the coals

What the grate turns out

Two people work the fire all night and neither of them uses a thermometer. Lamb goes on at five and comes off in stages, so a late table gets a different cut from an early one.

Vegetables are buried in the embers whole and dug out when they give. That takes as long as it takes, which is the honest answer to how long the wait is on a full Friday.

Bread is the only thing we make more of than we sell. Whatever is left goes out to the benches at ten with butter and salt.

Vegetables lifted out of the embers

To start

Bread, embers-cooked roots, pickles from the shelf behind the bar.

The main event

Lamb, carved by the piece, priced by weight.

To finish

One sticky wine, one baked thing, no more than that.

Timing

When the fire and the bar are working

5pm – 6pmLighting and resting

Open

6pm – 9pmFull service off the coals

Open

9pm – 10pmShort board, whatever is left on the fire

Open

10pm – 11.30pmCold, swept and banked

Bread, cheese and pickles